Hakodate - City Profile
Charming and rustic seaside Japanese city
Hakodate is arguably one of the most picturesque cities in all
of
Japan, and that's saying something as Japan has no shortage of
picturesque cities. Nestled at the southern tip of the island of
Hokkaido on the Kameda peninsula, Hakodate strides two worlds and two
oceans. Here the Pacific Ocean and Sea of Japan merge, and here Western
culture first visited this northern island.
With under 300,000 people Hakodate isn't a particularly large city (although it is the third largest city in Hokkaido) and this is a great part of its charm. Quaint, historical, beautiful, and unique, many of Hakodate's attractions can be visited on foot. In Hakodate, restored nineteenth century European-style buildings and warehouses sit next to Japanese buildings of the same era and condition, creating a truly unique architectural mix rarely seen.
The overall impression of Hakodate is one of balance: the city is very welcoming to tourists with great restaurants and affordable hotels, ryokans, and inns, yet it has not been transformed by tourism into something overly commercial or over priced. Hakodate is a very historical city, yet it feels confidently modern, open, and accessible--also unique for smaller Japanese cities.
As with many cities, the influence of the sea is never far from Hakodate. A sizable fishing fleet sits moored at the city docks, and many restaurants feature the local catch of the day--and serve it live and wriggling. Several restaurants serve live squid, fry, and other seafood, which is about as fresh as it gets yet unquestionably requires a developed palate.
The sushi and sashimi in Hakodate is some of the freshest in the world, but the more adventerous can try a whale burger at Lucky Pierrot's, a local burger chain famous (infamous?) for its enticing and challenging burger fare.
As for the attractions of Hakodate, most of them are very historical. Goryokaku Fort, constructed in 1857, is a large Western-style fortress steeped in history and, in spring, covered by millions of delicate cherry blossoms. Next to the park stands a 107 metre tall viewing tower--not particularly historical, but it provides outstanding views of Hakadate and the surrounding area.
The Graveyard for Foreigners (interestingly located next to a monument to the city's early brothel workers) might not seem like much of an attraction, but the leaning, aged gravestones marking the resting places of some of Hakodate's original Western inhabitants provide opportunity for serene reflection--and an interesting connection for foreign visitors.
From the top of 334 metre high Hakodate mountain visitors can gaze down at the Sea of Japan and the Pacific Ocean, and gaze back at the city of Hakodate and take in one of the most amazing night views anywhere (see the Hakodate photo above). The view alone is worth the price of the ticket to ride up the mountain in a bus, although if you have a car you can drive up for free.
For a relatively small city, there is a lot to see and do in Hakodate, Hokkaido. Picturesque, friendly, fun, and historical, Hakodate offers a truly unique experience and while perhaps not a main destination, it shouldn't be missed when visiting Hokkaido. About five hours by car from Sapporo, it's worth every minute of the journey.
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